Phoksundo Lake has seen a surge in popularity over the years. Its mesmerizing Y-shaped, lung-like structure and ever-changing hues throughout the day draw thousands of adventurers.
This trek had been sitting on my bucket list for a long time, and now, I can finally tick it off. My friends and I completed this journey in just eight days, and let me tell you — it was an experience of a lifetime.
Surprisingly, the trip came with minimal hiccups. No, you don’t need to switch between multiple buses or jeeps, and there’s no need to splurge on flights.
That’s right, there’s a direct bus to Dolpa!
All you need is a strong mindset, a well-packed bag, and around Rs. 20,000–25,000.
Still unsure? Don’t worry — I’ve got every detail covered for you.
Key Facts About Phoksundo Lake and National Park
| Known For | Second deepest and largest lake in Nepal (after Rara) |
| Region | Lower Dolpa, Karnali Province, Northwest Nepal |
| Altitude | 3,611.5 m (source) |
| Max. Altitude (viewpoints) | 4,200 m (source) |
| Trip Duration | 8 days |
| Trek Duration | 5 days |
| Difficulty Level | Easy-Moderate |
| Best Months | September-December, March-May |
First, Manage Your Bus Tickets
Securing your transportation is the first step in your Phoksundo adventure. As someone from Kathmandu, I initially found it tricky to locate reliable bus services heading to Dolpa.
After some research, I discovered there’s a relatively new bus service offering direct buses to Dolpa.
Be prepared for a flat fare of Rs. 6,000 (try bargaining in case you’re in a big group). While pricey, it’s worth it considering the 30-hour ride and the convenience of avoiding multiple transfers.
The bus runs on specific days, so make sure to confirm your booking beforehand. Here’s the route:
Kathmandu – Pokhara – Baglung – Kankri – Rukumkot – Khalanga – Simli – Rimna – Chisapani – Radi – Tallubagar – Suligad – Dunai
PRO TIP: If you’re from Pokhara or nearby towns along the route, you can board the bus mid-journey for a slightly lower fare (e.g., Rs. 5,500 from Pokhara).
Day 1: Catch Bus From Kathmandu
If you’re in Kathmandu, the buses leave exactly at 11 A.M. Note that punctuality is key as the drivers want you to reach Dolpa as fast as possible.
The ride will be adventurous, with minimal stops — the major one I remember was at Lumle for dinner. Stock up on snacks, hold onto your bladder, and embrace the journey.
Your entire day and night is going to be spent here. So, it’s a perfect opportunity to socialize with fellow travelers (only if you’re lucky though).
Day 2: Reach Suligad and Hike to Kageni
By the time you wake up tomorrow morning, you’ll find yourself in West Rukum. Our bus had stopped at Musikot for a quick break where we freshened up and had some tea before continuing the journey.
If all goes well, you’ll reach Suligad by mid-afternoon, around 3–4 PM.
Suligad serves as the starting point of the trek. I recommend pushing a little further and hiking to Kageni on the same day. This reduces your walk for the following day by at least 2 hours.
Before starting your hike, make sure to get your tickets from the Suligad Checkpost. Here’s what you need to know:
- The entry fee is Rs. 100 for Nepalese, Rs. 1,500 for SAARC nationals, and Rs. 3,000 for other tourists.
- Documentary/filming permits cost extra—Rs. 10,000 for Nepalese, Rs. 50,000 for SAARC nationals, and $1,500 for others. If you’re using a drone, an additional 25% fee applies.
- Trekking permits are mandatory for all international tourists, even SAARC nationals.
- Individual trekking permits only allow entry up to Phoksundo Lake. For Upper Dolpa, you’ll need to be part of a group.
Once you’ve secured your permits, you’ll also receive a map and other essential information from the army checkpost. You can leave any non-essential items or private vehicles at the checkpost for safekeeping.
Caution: As you hike, you’ll pass through a landslide-prone area. If it’s windy, falling rocks can pose a danger. Stay alert and move quickly in these sections.
Day 3: Kageni – Chhepka – Renchi – Saaijol
The trail from Kageni to Saaijol is a relatively easy one, with lush forests and rivers keeping you company along the way.
The serene environment is occasionally interrupted by photogenic spots like scenic bridges, perfect for pictures and videos.
Chhepka will be your spot for lunch. It has plenty of hotels, so finding one won’t be a problem.
Once you’re re-energized, head towards Renchi. While you’ll find hotels here, I suggest pushing a little further, ideally to Chunuwar or Saaijol.
Our group chose to stay in Saaijol, which lies between two popular names—Samjhana Hotel and Jharana Hotel.
Our experience: We covered around 8–9 hours of hiking that day, including breaks. The trail was straightforward, though the duration might vary depending on your pace and the number of breaks you take.
If you’re looking for a unique local experience, don’t miss trying Yak Sukuti—a dried yak meat delicacy.
Also, if you’re lucky, you may find fresh Dolpa apples and wallnuts on the trail. They’re absolutely delicious! (or maybe Yarshagumba :p)
Day 4: Saaijol – Ringmo and Explore Phoksundo
Today is an exciting day because you’ll finally reach Phoksundo Lake! Thanks to the extra distance covered in the past few days, today’s hike is relatively short.
After an hour of walking, the trail transitions to a few uphill climbs, which might feel challenging for beginners.
Along the way, you’ll catch a glimpse of the breathtaking Phoksundo Waterfall. While it’s far from the trail and not accessible, it’s a sight worth pausing for.
If you’re lucky, you may witness multiple rainbows forming near the waterfall—an incredible natural phenomenon that adds to the magical vibe of the place.
With determination and steady progress, you’ll reach Ringmo Village in 4–5 hours. As you step closer to the mesmerizing Phoksundo Lake, the exhaustion melts away.
Ringmo Village has plenty of hotels (even near the lake), so finding accommodation won’t be an issue.
Spend the rest of the day exploring the surroundings and soaking in the beauty of the lake.
Make sure to visit the nearby gumba (monastery), just a 15-minute walk from the village. You can also rent traditional attire from the hotels to snap some unique photos.
Day 5: Hike to Viewpoints and Return to Renchi
Set your alarms early today, as the winds in this area pick up significantly by afternoon, making hiking more difficult.
The morning trek takes 2–3 hours to reach various unnamed viewpoints (informally called the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd viewpoints).
Each viewpoint offers increasingly spectacular views of the Y-shaped Phoksundo Lake.
If time permits, consider hiking an extra hour to the other side of the lake. It’s a peaceful spot where you can spend some quiet moments reflecting or taking in the scenery.
After enjoying the views, head back to Ringmo Village for lunch and begin your descent. The downhill trek to Renchi is manageable and should take around 4–5 hours.
Day 6: Renchi – Suligad and Jeep Ride to Dunai
Today’s objective is to return to Dunai (headquarters of Dolpa), marking the end of the trekking portion of your trip.
If you’re quick, you might not even need the jeep ride mentioned in the heading.
The hike from Renchi to Suligad typically takes 8–9 hours, though it might stretch to 10–11 hours if you prefer a slower pace to savor the natural beauty.
Once you reach Suligad, you can catch a jeep to Dunai for around Rs. 100 per person. However, availability depends on the number of people in your group.
If a jeep isn’t available, it’s best to walk to Dunai and enjoy the final moments of your trek.
Dunai offers plenty of places to relax, so take this time to unwind. But if it’s in season, you might end up not getting a hotel, which almost happened with us.
Don’t forget to pre-book your bus ticket for the journey back to Kathmandu. With plenty of bus agents around, this should be hassle-free.
And here’s the thing: the bus fare from Dolpa to Kathmandu is relatively cheaper. This is likely because they offer local pricing. So, instead of contacting us, it’s best to find a local agent who can assist you directly there.
Day 7: Catch Bus in Dunai
The bus leaves Dunai at 11 AM, just like it did from Kathmandu. However, don’t be surprised if it takes a slower pace initially, as it will stop frequently to pick up locals.
Once it crosses Dunai, the bus speeds up considerably.
You should even get a glimpse of Tripurasundari Devi Temple on the way. And in case you’re in your private vehicle, I highly recommend giving a visit.
Before leaving, don’t forget to visit Dunai Bazaar and grab some fresh Dolpa apples. There’s a popular store where you can buy cartons—ask the locals for directions.
Day 8: Reach Kathmandu
Expect the return journey to Kathmandu to take around 30–35 hours.
In our case, the bus only took essential stops along the way, including Musikot for dinner (on Day 7), Burtibang for breakfast, and Lumle for lunch.
Once you reach Pokhara, the final stretch to Kathmandu is swift, ensuring you arrive on time.
Shey Phoksundo Trek Cost Breakdown
Completing the Phoksundo Lake trek can cost anywhere between Rs. 20,000–25,000 per person, depending on your group size and spending habits.
If I have to share my experiences, we were a group of four that quickly turned into nine once we reached Dolpa.
Meeting strangers and turning them into friends is what I love the most about traveling. You can read my story here.
Thanks to our group, we managed to complete the trip on a budget of Rs. 20,550 each. Let me share the complete cost details on a per-person basis (this should give you a general idea):
| Snacks + Meds (that we carried) | 1,630 |
| Bus fare (Ktm-Dolpa) | 6,000 |
| BUs fare (return) | 5,500 |
| Apples (5 kgs) | 400 |
| Shey Phoksundo NP Entry Ticket | 100 |
| Kageni Stay | 750 |
| Chhepka Lunch (twice) | 750 |
| Saaijol Stay | 1,060 |
| Ringmo Stay | 1,150 |
| Renchi Stay | 1,075 |
| Dunai Stay | 1,015 |
| Extra costs (snacks in bus, tea, jeep, etc.) | 1,120 |
| Total | 20,550 |
Since we were on a budget, we made sure to take lunch only once a day, skipped alcohol, and kept expenses as low as possible.
However, keep in mind that your costs could rise. So, be prepared for that!
Final Words
For a more comfortable experience, you could:
- Fly to Nepalgunj or Surkhet and take a bus/jeep to Dunai.
- Travel to West Rukum, stay overnight, and find local transport to Dolpa the next day.
But trust me, the approach we took—using a single direct bus—was a lot more convenient compared to other trekkers we met along the way.
In fact, we even convinced some of our new friends to join us for the return trip to Kathmandu on the same bus, and it was hassle-free.
If you have any questions, feel free to use the comment section below—I’d love to help!
And once you’re back from Shey Phoksundo, don’t forget to tag us in your Instagram stories. Happy traveling to West Nepal!
About The Author
Do you know if you can do this trek solo or if I have to have a guide, thanks
Hello there, Mltch!
Solo treks are not permitted in Shey-Phoksundo National Park. However, you can trek with a friend or partner, or if you’re alone, you can hire a local guide. Please note that a trekking permit is also required for entry. If you’d like more information, feel free to email me at bhishu@travelnepaltoday.com. I’d be happy to assist you further!
Hey. Can we complete this trek in Mid-March? Is the weather ok there in that time? Also, is the trail safe for girls?
Hey Durga!
Mid-March is usually a great time for the Phoksundo trek, with blooming rhododendrons and pleasant weather. But this year, the weather has taken a bit of a turn—it’s colder and a bit unpredictable compared to usual. So if you’re aiming for a more comfortable experience, it might be better to delay the trek just a little until things settle.
That said, the trail itself is beautiful around this time, and once the weather clears up, it’ll be totally worth it.
As for safety—yes, the trail is safe for girls. Many have even done it solo without any issues. But if you’re planning to travel by bus, just be a little cautious—sometimes unexpected things can happen. I’ve shared a similar experience here.
Let me know if you need help with anything else!
Good Information with detailed cost but is taking guide a must and how much for the trekking permit after paying entry fee
Hi Shadirar,
You’ll need the following trekking permits for Phoksundo Lake, which is in the Lower Dolpo region:
Trekking permits can be a hassle. However, as per the Shey Phoksundo Entrance Card, you can obtain them directly in Suligad. Many travelers prefer using a reliable travel agency to handle these formalities, though agencies typically charge extra for their services.
Let me know if you’d like me to find a reliable travel agency for you. And if you’re planning to trek solo, you’ll need to have a local guide at the very least. However, if you’re traveling with your own group, there’s no mandatory guide requirement in the Lower Dolpo region.
Hopefully, this answers all your queries. Feel free to reach out if you need any more details—always happy to help!
P.S. I understand this guide is primarily focused on local travelers. I’ll soon publish a dedicated guide covering everything—from permits and budget-friendly trekking packages to other essential details—right here on this site. Stay tuned!
Hey is June month is fine to trek and is it allowed to do solo trek ?
Hello Rakesh,
Early June is a wonderful time to visit Phoksundo Lake. Since the highlight of the trek is the tranquil beauty of the lake rather than distant mountain views, this period works really well. The monsoon hasn’t fully set in yet, so you can expect relatively dry trails but still the weather can be unpredictable. I wouldn’t recommend doing the trek once the monsoon hits. The road conditions, which are already challenging, tend to worsen significantly with rain. However, if you’re prepared for that, it’s still a rewarding destination. And yes…trekking solo is absolutely possible!
hey what is the cost of travel from nepalgunj to dunai are there any local transport available there and how long it takes from nepalgunj to dunai
Hey Anuj,
While I’m not exactly sure, but based on my research, the bus ticket price from Nepalgunj to Dolpa should be around Rs. 3,000–3,500 via Dolpa Shey-Phoksundo Yatayat.
Would this trek be possible in AUG? Also the total cost mentioned in the article here 20,550, is it NPR? Any way I could speed up the trip, I would like to get to those 3 viewpoints as fast as I can
Hello there, Devesh,
This trek is possible in August, but the monsoon has blocked some parts of the road after Tallu Bagar. This means you’ll need to find another jeep from that point, which can make the journey a bit more time-consuming. Also, please note that the total cost mentioned in the article is for Nepalese citizens—if you’re from outside Nepal, the cost will be slightly higher.
Even if you try to speed things up, it will be difficult to return to Kathmandu the same day, as the only direct bus departs at 11 AM daily (yes, there’s only one).
From my experience, the 8-day itinerary is not just the shortest but also the most optimal way to complete the Phoksundo trek. If you choose the flight option, it’s possible to finish it in 6–7 days, but that comes at a staggering cost!
You can book your tickets using this form. I highly recommend doing the trek after September. But if you’re planning to do it in August, it’s best to give yourself more time—around 10 days—since it’s prime monsoon season in Nepal, and safety should always be your top priority.
Hey, Being a Nepalese citizen, Am I allowed as solo trekker in December?
Hello Sudhir, yes! Nepalese citizens can trek solo. However, I’d still recommend going with at least one friend since it’s quite a remote area. December is a great time to go, but do check the weather conditions beforehand. All the best!