I woke up, and my shoulder pain was still there. I had no choice but to apply Moov, and boy, did I apply a lot. Within hours, the pain had reduced to almost nothing.
Meanwhile, my face was starting to chap and break out from the cold, despite my efforts with sunscreen and moisturizer.
It was probably from washing my face with cold water, dipping my head in the flowing river, and embracing nature a bit too much – and this was only the beginning.
I layered on more Vaseline, thanks to Samundra and Prashosan, who had carried each one with them. I’d even developed a gesture on this trip to apply Vaseline, and everyone knew exactly what I meant.
Every morning, I was the first to wake up and freshen up, but somehow, I was always the last to leave because I’d check my stuff three times to be sure.
Feeling pretty good by now, I thought I’d carry all my things to the top, but since Sahil and Prashosan were leaving things behind, I ended up leaving some clothes too, and packing even late than usual!
We had our cups of tea, and to lighten my bag even more, I tossed in all the biscuits I carried for breakfast.
Now, we were ready to head to Ringmo Village. We’d been repeatedly warned that the walk would be an uphill climb – steep enough to make your nose touch the hill.
So much guffadis out there, right? Actually, this was mostly my bluff, as I’d heard it in a video.
Anyways, it gave us that mental push. Only if someone had said it was easy, the climb might have felt like Everest.
But with our mindset prepared for a challenging uphill, we actually tackled the three-mountain hill pretty easily. Not that it wasn’t tough for some – a few of the guys did find it hard.
Nonetheless, this reverse psychology worked wonders. I think everyone reading this should try it sometime: take on every task as though it’s challenging, and you’ll give it your best. When you finish, it might feel like it was nothing. It’s all in your head, you know.
The ladies started the hike as usual, and we caught up and overtook them, as usual.
Prashosan and I were on a roll, as were Sandesh and Anup. We only took one break to fill our tummies with Snickers and chow-chow that we’d all carried.
After this first rest, we thought some of them might need help, but everyone found their pace and kept going. We only waited for them at the beautiful Phoksundo waterfall.
This waterfall was from Phoksundo Lake itself, hence the name “Phoksundo Jharana.” But it was a bit far, so just gazing – no bathing.
We’d already passed the uphill stretch, so it was photo time. I got there first and was the last to leave, spending almost 45 minutes, but it was worth it!
Once I realized I’d lost track of time, my hiking spirit kicked in, and I continued nonstop. The guys were far ahead but I quickly caught up (except for Team A).
I was walking fast, deep in my own thoughts, when I realized I’d gone too far ahead. I needed someone to talk to, so I decided to wait.
I took out a packet of chow-chow and sat by the riverside to enjoy the flowing water. It was soothing. Just as I was halfway through my snack, my beloved Team B caught up.
We shared the chow-chow, adding Didi‘s special ‘masala‘ – something unforgettable from our Phokundo Lake trek. By the end of this trip, we’d emptied it completely.
Team B stuck together, chatting with everyone we passed. An older couple wasn’t too impressed with the lake, as they hadn’t made it to any of the viewpoints.
They were comparing Phoksundo to Rara, which I think is a mistake. Every place has its own beauty, and we were here to enjoy Phoksundo‘s – its unique color changes, its Y-shape, and its still waters.
I knew Phoksundo would mesmerize us all, so I kept the ladies motivated.
We reached the Ringmo gate and took some more snaps. Didi gave her “thumkas” for my videos, and Dhakal ji grinned with her warm smile, as usual.
We marched ahead and met an old man who tried to chat with us, but we couldn’t understand a word. It hit us that we’d finally reached a place where language would be a real barrier, though not quite as we expected.
Finally, we entered the beautiful Ringmo Village, and the search for our Team A began again.
I called Anup sir, and he’d already reached the lake, and he also tells us that we were just five minutes away from finally resting our eyes.
We met Sandesh and Prashosan on the way; they’d already booked us a hotel, but the problem was, it was a bit far from the lake. At least we got our first view of the stunning Phoksundo from there.
The guys suggested we eat lunch before heading to the lake, but I had other thoughts – I was hungry, but not for food, for Phoksundo!
I told them, “We’ve come this far; let’s go enjoy it first.” My Team B was already on board, and our enthusiasm convinced the two as well.
We walked quickly and finally reached the lakeside, where we met Anup sir.
Most of us weren’t thrilled with the hotel. We’d come so far and needed to stay as close to the lake as possible. Anup sir had already checked some other hotels by the lake, but they were surprisingly all full.
You’re probably wondering, “Where’s your ‘universe sign’ now, Bhishu?” Just wait – there’s a big story coming, from miscommunication and hotel mix-ups to extra charges and the most fun night of all. I’ll get to it soon.
For now, we decided to let the hotel worries go and just enjoy the beautiful Phoksundo Lake.
I asked Anup sir to take a video of me, and I ran straight to the lake, dipping my foot in and getting my shoes and socks wet in my excitement.
Prashosan and Nisha followed, and we took our time getting the pictures and videos we wanted. In my excitement, I dunked my head into Phoksundo Lake – water went straight into my Phokso!
But it was exhilarating as if all my stress and worries had washed away. It felt like a baptism – a new life, a fresh beginning, exactly what I needed. And just to clarify, I’m still Hindu!
The ladies were eager for their shots. I realized I’d taken enough time, so I made sure they were satisfied with their photos and videos too.
Nisha, wanting to try everything, didn’t hold back from dipping her head too. But in that excitement, she got her whole body wet! I’m pretty sure she felt as exhilarating as I did.
Even Didi, though scared, eventually dipped her head too – though I had to encourage her to try three more times! :p
What a day! We’d finally reached Phoksundo after such a long journey, and it was time to soak our feet and relax.
Once we’d absorbed the lake’s beauty, we noticed that Team C was missing, again!
I called Ram, and turn out they were off enjoying their own version of fun with time-lapse videos and amazing shots at the other side of the lake.
Team A had already returned to the hotel Sandesh and Prashosan had booked. Team B followed, as we were hungry.
Team C is here as well, so we all enjoy lunch together.
Anup sir, who had already eaten, now decides to check on the lakeside hotels again. Our plan was to stay as close to the lake as possible.
But this is when the trouble begins. Anup sir is determined to stay near the lake, while the other guys want to rest in the current hotel itself.
The thing is, Prashosan and Sandesh had already booked rooms and were totally satisfied. We had decided to cancel the hotel, making the owners feel bad – they were already preparing for dinner.
Anup sir tries to find the best hotel near the lake, but none of them have a single room available. After quite a while, he tells me he’s found one hotel, but the group staying there hasn’t left yet; they’re supposed to, but it’s not confirmed. So, we’re in a dilemma now.
The tired guys wanted immediate rest, and we’re also supposed to ride horses, visit the Gumba, and there’s just too much to do today. But we’re all stuck.
To make matters worse, the wind is blowing strong here, everyone’s feeling cold, and the sun is starting to hide behind clouds—signs of rain, perhaps!
So much for “tauko ma lekheko huncha.” Maybe this was our fate today.
The guys lost patience and asked me to call Anup sir and inform him we’re staying here. They had made the decision.
At this point, the majority was ready to stay in this hotel rather than wait for Anup sir. I talked to Anup sir, and we all agreed to stay here.
But just as we stepped into our rooms and laid down, Anup sir tells me that the hotel by the lake is now available!
I told him we’ve already booked this hotel now, so let it be and come back. It seemed he had gone through so much trouble booking the lakeside hotel that he couldn’t cancel it. He was ready to stay alone for the night.
Well, that wouldn’t be the right thing to do, especially for our original gang that came together on this trip.
I had to confront the whole squad to let go of this hotel and move to the other. I knew most of them weren’t pleased. So, it seemed we had to part ways after so long.
I couldn’t leave our beloved Anup sir alone, and neither could Ram or Samundra. We thought of splitting up for one night, but eventually, everyone agreed.
That’s when we realized our group has really bonded. We were ready to do anything for each other- a strong bond indeed!
The hotel charged us extra for our nonsense, which was totally fine because what mattered was being together! Luckily, the hotel got new guests too—a double win for them.
Then came another twist—the girls, in true “afnai cha para mero beglai cha ani bani” style, had already rented Dolpa‘s cultural clothes from the hotel.
They were all set to reach the Gumba for photos when they heard we were switching hotels again. We all laughed because the situation was just getting worse. But it wasn’t a big issue; we could return the clothes tomorrow.
Now we head to the lakeside hotel. Nisha‘s practically floating on air while the guys grumble about the extra Rs. 1000 we had to pay for nothing.
Nisha‘s words were true though, “Eti tada samma aayera aba jhan taal najikai herdai basna pairacham. 1000 ko tension linu hudaina.”
After all, we all have one life, and we’re here at Phoksundo to witness this beauty, probably just once in this lifetime. We’re definitely not coming back here anytime soon, so we might as well make the best of it.
It was a worthy decision, until we found out the lakeside hotel still wasn’t empty. Now, we had to wait another half-hour to be sure we’d get somewhere to stay!
Everyone was complaining, and I had nothing but a big smile on my face, thinking, “tauko ma k lekhya ho yo.” Anup sir seemed worried, too; after all, we’d left one hotel, and now we weren’t sure if we’d get to stay in another.
I’m thankful that nobody blamed anyone, even in such a heated situation. They were expressing their disbelief, but after all, it’s a trip, and these things happen. The ladies, by the way, were still happy.
Finally, we get into our rooms. The girls get their usual luxury stay, while the guys discuss how to adjust ourselves in two rooms.
The ‘smart‘ guys took single beds, while Ram, Sandesh, and I had to squeeze into one queen-size bed for the night.
That’s when I remembered Kageni’s Raju Hotel, where we had the best night of sleep. I knew I wasn’t getting a proper night’s sleep here, but the night is still far to worry about this anyway.
Now, it’s time to explore the hotel. First stop: the toilet. Oh boy! Are we going to regret this! I could barely manage to pee here. How am I supposed to do more?
Only to realize later there was a better toilet on the other side of the hotel. And boy, the view from that toilet was breathtaking. For the boys: you could pee while gazing at Phoksundo—dream come true.
Anyway, the hotel wasn’t as bad as everyone had been complaining about—the real issue was the old hotel owner who was running it all by himself.
He was kind of a chill dude who didn’t care much about his guests. We asked for soap-he said, “Kag le udaidyo.” We told him we weren’t eating much for dinner, just chow-chow, and he had to debate with us for an hour.
We had to pinky promise to take lunch tomorrow in order to satisfy him and stop the argument. He had even promised we’d get to ride horses tomorrow, which we couldn’t.
Sometimes, I felt for this old man though, because he had to run the hotel alone. But again, it’s a hotel, and guests expect at least basic amenities. There’s a whole funny story about him I’ll share later.
For now, we have to hurry to the other side of the lake, where there’s a Gumba and a proper spot to gaze at the lake.
She was already jumping with joy as she and I led the way to the Gumba, where we also met a dai from Kathmandu who had come with his own pair of strangers.
His story: he had originally posted on Facebook asking people to join him, and only two could!
I shared our story, and he was already jealous. Anyone would be really to see strangers bond and have the time of their lives. We’d been telling this story to everyone we met, and each person was amazed.
After about 15 minutes of walking, we reached the Gumba. Inside, Nisha lit a candle to make a wish, a thing she’d been doing throughout the trip.
We had a chat with the lama inside. We took a groupie with him afterward.
Then, I took some cinematic shots for the ladies and did some fun Pushpa moves with the boys. Once everyone was satisfied, we headed to the other side, where Anup, Sandesh, Ram, and our new friend were bonding.
I took my time to admire the beauty of Phoksundo. Then, I called each one and captured a video with them—for memories, you know.
But everyone thought I had other plans-I wasn’t capturing their words for my YouTube channel, but surely their faces would go into the reels.
As we decided to return, we reached the Phoksundo Lake board and finally clicked our group pictures, where all nine of us were together. Thankfully, some folks passing by helped us with this. We were having fun, so “dance to banta hein!“
I really had this wish to get off the bus in Rukumkot and dance to the viral song ‘Rukum Maikot‘, never got fulfilled. But we could definitely dance to that song here in Phoksundo Lake.
Note: Later I came to know the song is about Maikot, not Rukumkot, where a lot of people were making videos.
Didi was always ready to dance, followed by Nisha who was on board this time. Samundra seemed eager, Ram looked annoyed, while Sahil and Prashosan were “sapana mai danga.”
I taught them a few steps, and there we were—making a TikTok video!
The dance turned out to be more of a joke because honestly, none of us were perfect.
I also had this eagerness to dance to “Aayi Nai,” so I taught just the guys, who were happy to follow along.
Anup and Sandesh, probably annoyed, headed to the hotel. But the rest of us had the best laugh.
It was getting dark, but the joy and excitement were only rising. There was still more to come tonight and more unexpected things to follow.
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