A solo trek? Ask me to go for it a year earlier, and my answer would have been a big fat no. I wouldn’t just need a friend. I’d need at least two other friends to go on a trek. But in less than a year, I’ve become a completely different person.
A trip to Panch Pokhari had always been a dream destination for me. Turns out, it was also the destination for my first-ever solo trek. What a way to decide it.
The thing is—I’ve made a pact with myself: at least one trip every month to explore this beautiful country of mine. And when no other trips were being finalized, it was time for me to step up, take that ‘jigra‘ out, and head off all alone.
It wasn’t a hard choice at all. Panch Pokhari was something I had been talking about with some of my friends lately. So, I decided to go for it.
I waited for the right time—when I could free myself from some of my personal work. And when I was absolutely ready, I checked the exact location to get to Chhimti.
The thing is—I had already researched the itinerary months earlier. Yet, I was still trying to make it perfect, even though we all trekkers know that itineraries are made as we reach the destination. Sometimes, they go perfectly, and sometimes, they change.
Since Panch Pokhari is so close to Kathmandu, I was sure I could complete the trek within 2 nights and 3 days. So, with a strong mindset, I marched on. I reached Shiva Chowk Bus Park in Jorpati and got a ticket to Chhimti. Now, there was no turning back!
On my way, all I could think about was whether this decision was a good one. I was questioning myself every single moment. I didn’t get much appreciation from my parents either. Walking alone is risky, which I completely agree with (even after completing this trek). But it was the experience I was craving.
What would I do all alone without any support? What if something actually happened to me? So many “what ifs“…
Maybe in another universe, I never went, even after getting the ticket. But in this universe, I was ready. I had already done my shopping too, and as I returned home from Jorpati, I started packing my bag. Of course, my parents were worried. So was I. You know, mixed feelings. Yet, I kept motivating myself throughout the night.
I woke up around 4 AM, freshened up, had my ‘chiya biscuit‘ for breakfast, and got ready for my solo trip to Sindhupalchowk.
I was excited, a little scared, but most importantly, very motivated. I booked a ride to Shiva Chowk, and from here onwards, my extroverted side had to come out. I didn’t talk much with the Indrive rider but guided him to the bus stop.
There I was, hoping to meet fellow trekkers. Usually, I make friends during my treks, and I’ve even shared an amazing story of my Phoksundo Lake trip here in Travel Nepal Today.
But this time, there was nobody—only locals. I hopped on, making sure I was on the right bus. I couldn’t take any risks, right? I sat down and waited for the bus which was supposed to start at 6:20 AM. There was a slight delay of 10 minutes, but soon enough, the bus roared to life.
I noticed a few people carrying trekking bags and wondered if they were heading to Panch Pokhari too. Yet, I stayed quiet in my seat. Turns out, I was sitting in the wrong seat and had to shift forward, asking an elderly man to move.
And just like that, I sat next to a local uncle with whom I had my first official conversation. He started telling me more about Panch Pokhari, sharing details I hadn’t come across in my research. I was curious and asked as many questions as I could—it made me feel more prepared and motivated.
Of course, he asked the inevitable: “How many of you are going?” And my answer? “Eklai ho ma ta!” A phrase I found myself repeating throughout this journey.
He was surprised but also hopeful that I’d meet new friends along the way. But we both weren’t exactly sure whether the ones sitting behind us were also heading for the trek. They didn’t exactly look like trekkers.
The bus made a brief stop at Melamchi for a break. I went alone to a small hotel. I didn’t feel like eating anything, but maybe out of nervousness, my stomach had other plans. I initially ordered a cup of black tea but then decided to get a plate of chickpeas too.
The hotel owner was my temporary friend for the next 15 minutes. I made sure to visit his hotel during the return.
After the short break, we all hopped back onto the bus, and the journey continued. Five hours passed—long stretches of road, a slight delay in between—and finally, we reached Chhimti, the starting point of the Panch Pokhari trek.
When I had bought my ticket, I was told the bus wouldn’t go all the way to Chhimti but would stop a couple of hours ahead in Bhotang. Turns out, I got lucky—I didn’t have to walk those extra two hours.
As all the passengers got off, I noticed five guys were also heading to Panch Pokhari. They looked young (probably around 16 or 17)—dressed in jeans, no proper trekking boots, light bags, and confused expressions. We had a quick chat before heading to a hotel for lunch.
Of course, that small plate of chickpeas wasn’t going to be enough. The trail ahead was a steep uphill climb right from the start.
While I wanted to walk with the group, chat, and move forward together, I had promised myself I’d do this trek alone. So, I quickly ordered a veg khana set at the hotel.
No meat for the rest of the trek. You never know when your stomach might betray you in the mountains. Plain rice, lentils, and some vegetables—it was the safest bet.
At the hotel, I met a middle-aged couple who had just returned from Panch Pokhari. We had an interesting conversation, and they answered all my questions.
The most important one: “Is it snowing in Panch Pokhari?” Answer: Yes! It had been snowing for an entire week. That was good news, right?
Not exactly. My biggest concern was the trail conditions. When the couple were there, it hadn’t snowed much. But as they left, the snowfall had started heavily. Based on their prediction, the path could be slippery (especially since it was sunny now). My fear escalated.
I was alone. There weren’t many trekkers either. In fact, we six were the first ones to arrive at Chhimti that day. Obviously, nobody was ahead of us. There were trekkers already up at Panch Pokhari. So, I couldn’t possibly catch up to them.
It looked like my solo trek was about to become even more solo. Just as I had imagined the night before.
With a mix of fear and motivation, I waved goodbye to the couple and marched forward. I told the five guys, “I’ll be ahead; we’ll catch up somewhere.” They nodded.
I took a deep breath, adjusted my backpack, grabbed my trekking pole, and stepped onto the trail.
And from here, my journey truly began…
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